the Trellis Collar Sweater

A couple of weeks ago I previewed the Trellis Collar Sweater, a sweater I'm wearing right now even though it's 70 degrees outside because I love it so much! I've said it before but this yarn Blissa from the BagSmith is divine. An absolutely gorgeous alpaca 85%, extra-fine merino 10% & polyamide 5% blend that has a nice loftiness to it thanks to it's crocheted tubular structure. It still has some alpaca heft but not nearly what you would expect, even at 85%. This sweater with the over sized yet versatile collar worked in this yarn is like an embrace and when you take it off you really feel it's absence,

it's that wonderful.

Knit using 4-4.5 skeins of Blissa, the half skein extra is for the version with sleeves and #17's. Worked top down in one piece it's a fairly quick knit. Although it's pretty straight forward without any challenging techniques I would still rate it for an intermediate knitter since there is some involvement on the knitters part to get a perfect fit. The sweater pictured (S/M) was made for a measurement of up to 43” around the shoulders with a bust size of @32-34”. 

A larger size is coming soon.

Available as a PDF download. $6.50

 

2 for 1

 

Update to this post: If you are looking for detailed instructions on how to knit 1 sock inside the other it starts here about half way down the post: prep work for 2 at once socks

I love knitted socks, I love the way they look and with so many beautiful designs out there you would think I would be tempted... but I'm not a sock knitter. It's not the small needles and it's not the fine yarn the problem I have with socks is you have to make two. I had the same problem with sleeves when I used to knit sweaters in pieces, you finish one and there's another one waiting and in my case waiting and waiting and waiting.... but for some reason a couple of weeks ago I got the sock bug and decided to tackle knitting 2 socks at once, one inside the other and I have to say this might be the start of something for me.

For one who doesn't knit socks I sure have a lot of sock yarn in my stash! I started with Misti Alpaca's Hand Paint Sock yarn a beautiful Alpaca, Merino, Silk and nylon blend and #1 DPN's. I referenced a woman's basic sock pattern estimating the number of stitches to cast on for a toddler then followed Elizabeth Zimmerman's way for the rest of it. 

What I love about Elizabeth Zimmermans way of instructing is it reminds me of my mom, "you do a bit of this and then you do that and then you have your sock". My mom used to tell me when I came to her with a knitting problem "you know how to knit and you know how to purl, you'll figure it out". An enabler she wasn't!  

 For the how to of knitting one inside the other I checked out youtube and found some helpful videos. There are also instructions in Interweave Knit's "Knitting Traditions" from Winter of 2010 which I forgot I had until I was almost finished with the socks. After reading their instructions I was glad I just winged it and let common sense guide me. Not that I found them confusing it's just once you have the stitches on the needles it's clear how you have to knit them.

 

You start by casting on the total amount to be knit for each sock on 2 separate needles with 2 balls of yarn. I cast 50sts on each needle using an Estonian Cast On for elasticity. Consider one to be needle A, the other needle B. Then place one stitch from each needle on a 3rd needle so they line up A,B,A,B. 

I decided to make it easier on myself by knitting the socks in stockinette stitch. I was going to do a ribbed cuff with a kitchener cast on and even thought I could work 2 separate cuffs and join them later but felt like that would be cheating. Plus what's the point of 2 in one if you don't start from the beginning! They did suggest doing just that in the "Knitting Traditions" instructions though by the time I read that I was almost finished.

 Using a hand painted yarn makes it easier to differentiate the 2 socks. Like in this photo the orange stitches are the outer sock, the purple stitches the inner sock. For the outer sock both strands of yarn are in back and you knit the outer sock using the designated strand (it makes sense once you get knitting). For the inner sock the strand for the outer sock comes in front of the needle the stitches are on and you knit the 2nd strand leaving this first one in front. You have to keep them separated when knitting so they don't cross and connect the 2 socks. I did that once and it was a real pain to rip out and put all the stitches back on the needles. 

Here's the beginning of the separate socks.

And here it is a little further along.

At this point I've turned the heel. Once you've worked this far how to turn the heel will make sense to you, hopefully! I didn't check but I'm sure there are more video's online for this too.

 

Heel and instep finished! You will need an extra needle when working decreases. Like working cables you have to rearrange the stitches at the decrease points to again keep the socks separated.

 

 The toe I decreased down to 7 stitches. Before grafting the stitches are placed on their own needles for each sock. Graft the inner sock first, then the outer sock.

Next time I think I'll knit the sock a bit longer and stop decreasing the toe sooner to graft more stitches since I'm not sure I like how pointy these toes are. I haven't blocked them yet so I should see how they look blocked first.

And finally!

 

Ta Da!

  2 socks for about the knitting time of 1!

I really enjoyed this sock experience a good thing too since I still have to make another pair to keep peace in the house. Maybe my next sock challenge will be 2 pairs at once, 3 inside the 1!

To Russia (and Russian readers) with Love

The best part of having a stat counter on your blog is to see who visits. Lately I've had a lot of Russian visitors (with a few other Eastern European countries too) and I mean a lot. They were nudging out the Canadians and coming close to the number of my US visitors. I was really surprised and delighted! I would love to go to Russia but if I can't go I'm happy my blog does!

Anyways, it started from my Ravelry friend Jinnee (Zhenya) putting a link to the Misti Brioche Honeycomb Sweater on a Russian hand crafts site. Seeing all the action towards the sweater inspired me to write the pattern for the Brioche Honeycomb Cowl and as a, "thanks for stopping by" I wanted to have the pattern in Russian. Thank you Zhenya for the translation! She also sent me this link to a Russian festival that looks like great fun.

Brioche Honeycomb
Бриошь Медовые соты(шарф -труба)

Вам потребуется:
·1 моток пряжи Blissa(85% альпака, 10% мерино- экстрафайн, 5% полиамид)
·спицы № 12 или US №17
·игла для сшивания

Плотность вязания: 1.3 п в одном дюйме (1дюйм=2.54 см)
Размер один, в разложенном виде 23см *30.5см.

При вязании этого шарфа-трубы использованы узор «бриошь медовые соты» и  платочная вязка. Модель сшивается по открытым петлям в одном из рядов платочной вязки. Впрочем, вы можете также использовать метод закрытия петель на трех спицах или же просто сшить матрасным швом.

Узор Бриошь Медовые соты: четно 2

1.     Лиц.
2.     Лиц.
3.     (на лиц. стороне работы) *1лиц., провязать 1 лиц. из петли рядом ниже  * см. картинку и пояснение ниже.
4.     *правую спицу ввести в петлю рядом ниже скинутую в пред. ряду, провязать ее лицевой вместе с петлей над ней, 1 лиц. * см. картинку и пояснение ниже.
5.     * 1 лиц. из петли рядом ниже, 1лиц.*
6.     * 1лиц., правую спицу ввести в петлю рядом ниже, скинутую в пред. ряду и  провязать ее лицевой вместе с петлей над ней*
Повторять ряды 3 -6

Фото 1. показывает как провязать лицевую из петли рядом ниже.

 


1 лиц. из петли рядом ниже :
ввести правую спицу в петлю, расположенную рядом ниже, той петли, которая должна быть провязана сейчас. Таким образом, петля сверху, будет скинута.

Фото 2. показывает как ввести петлю под скинутую петлю и провязать ее лиц.

Скинутая петля (ряд 4): петля, которая была непровязана и скинута в третьем ряду.

 Описание работы:
Используя невидимый набор, набрать 16 п. Вязать основным узором(бриошь медовые соты)  25.5. см, при этом снимая кромочную петлю в каждом ряду.
Вязать платочной вязкой (все ряды лицевыми) 6 рядов.
Продолжить основным узором, начиная с ряда 3, провязать 25.5.см.
Провязать 2 ряда плат. вязкой. Набрать петли по краю невидимого набора  и сшить по открытым петлям начало и конец шарфа. Или закрыть петли на трех спицах (для этого сложить края полотна изнанкой внутрь, верхнее полотно на нижнее, концы спиц направлены в одну сторону, ввести третью спицу в первые петли каждого из краев и провязать их вместе, продолжать до конца ряда).
Спрятать кончики.

the Brioche Honeycomb Cowl

I was lucky enough to get my hands on the BagSmith's new super chunky yarn Blissa thanks Rebecca! and I am so in love with this yarn! It's an absolutely gorgeous alpaca85%/extra-fine merino10% & polyamide5% blend that has a nice loftiness to it thanks to it's crocheted tubular structure. It still has some alpaca heft but not nearly what you would expect, even at 85%. It is a pricey yarn, but if you are in the mood to spoil yourself buy some!

The minute I felt this yarn, I knew I wanted it wrapped around me and if I were a rich woman I would make a throw for every room in my house it's that sumptuous! I decided instead the next best thing would be a sweater with a nice big collar see photos below and since I had a skein left over a simple cowl.

The sweater pattern I'm still tweaking but here's the cowl inspired by my Misti Brioche Honeycomb Sweater Pattern: 

the Brioche Honeycomb Cowl

1 skein of Blissa (130 yds) splurge you deserve it!

#17 straight or circ's

darning needle for grafting

gauge: 1.3sts in Brioche Honeycomb stitch
one size
Flat measurements: 9"x12" (23cmx30.5cm)

This cowl is worked flat in a Brioche Honeycomb stitch with 2 panels of garter stitch evenly placed. The cowl is grafted together on a garter stitch row although if you don't know how to graft or want to avoid it use a 3 needle BO or sew it together.

Brioche Honeycomb stitch:
Multiples of 2
Row 1: K
Row 2: K
Row 3: (RS of work): * K1, K1B *
Row 4: * With the right hand needle K the sl st of the previous row with the st above it, K1*
Row 5: * K1 B, K1 *
Row 6: * K1, K the next st with the yarn as row 4 *
Rep rows 3-6
K1B aka double stitch: insert the right needle through the center of the stitch below the next stitch to be knit so that both are knit at the same time. The “sl stitch” in row 4 refers to the stitch that “slips” out of the loop when you knit the stitch below it.

this image shows knitting into the st below

this image shows going under the sl st (WS) to knit together w/ st on the needle

Start:
Using a provisional (invisible) cast on, cast on 16sts and work in Brioche Honeycomb pattern for 10" (25.5cm) slipping the 1st st of every row. (Slipping the 1st stitch of every row although not necessary will give a nice clean edge. If slipping the 1st st of every row, K the last stitch of every row to maintain the stitch pattern. If not slipping the 1st st work the Brioche Honeycomb stitch across all 16 sts).

Work Garter stitch (k every row) for 6 rows.

Continue with Brioche Honeycomb stitch from Row 3 of stitch pattern for 10" (25.5cm)

Work 2 rows of Garter stitch. 

Pick up stitches from the invisible cast on and graft together (or 3 needle BO) with last Garter stitch row.

Weave in ends.

the stitch looks like this when knit up 

but is worn like this

Here's the Trellis Collar Sweater. I should have the pattern posted in the next couple of weeks. This is a hard one to take off because you feel so wonderful wearing it!

And last but not least, Happy Birthday to my baby! 2 years goes by too quickly!

top down raglan for the babes

If you've never made a sweater for a baby and if you've never tried a top down sweater in a raglan style by far the easiest is the combination of both. And once you've done one raglan baby sweater you can pretty much mindlessly do many more if you're so inclined. 

The sweater in the above photos was made using the pattern for Wilhelmina's Baby Sweater though I started with a 1x1 rib for a higher turtle neck and did a deep 1x1 rib on the sleeves and body. The pattern for the baby sweater is sized 9-12 months. Wilhelmina is now 3 and a half but wears clothes for a 5yo I didn't have to adjust the pattern much and therein lies the beauty of top down. I started with the same amount of stitches but kept knitting past where the pattern says to stop to separate the sleeves from the body, had her try it on and went from there.

This one I adjusted for chunky yarn (left overs from other projects...these sweaters don't take much) and a wide roll neck. I guessed for the amount of stitches to cast on and had her try it on after a few rounds. After that you can pretty much eyeball it. Kids clothes are a lot more forgiving in that way especially in a top down raglan style. I wouldn't necessarily want this boxy style for myself but it sure looks cute on the wee ones.

 

The head band was a neck warmer they used to wear when they were babies that is the same amount of stitches and the same stitch pattern cast on for the mock turtleneck of Wilhelmina's Baby Sweater.

Techniques Workshops

If you live in the Los Angeles area and want to hone your knitting skills join me at The Little Knittery the last Saturday of the month 12:30-3:00 for an ongoing techniques workshop. 

Starting March 26th with all things Kitchener: cast on, bind off and the kitchener stitch (grafting) will be covered in this class.  

Class info & sign up.

in between

I have 5 projects on needles right now and none of them are inspiring me to completion. A couple of them have the feeling of an obligation knit, they aren't but they've been lingering for too long. I know I should just give them the few hours needed to finish but I have this mental block even though I like them.

The other ones I don't know if I like them enough and I'm this close to being finished. But if your mantra while knitting past the half way point is, "I should stop since I'm just going to rip this out" then maybe you should.

And what's the point of this? Well, in trying to avoid the above projects I was going through and organizing some photos, found these and wanted to share.

I think this was my Holiday window display in 2006 for Knit 1 in Chicago. Unfortunately I didn't take the time to photograph this properly but luckily my husband snapped a couple from the street with his phone. I wanted something Dr Zhivago dramatic and something that would really grab peoples attention while they were driving by. I always thought about making stand out pieces when I would change the window and always tried to out do myself.

The cape on the left was made with Malabrigo's Gruesa a thick/thin wool and #13's. It's hard to tell from the photo but it was probably the best true red I had ever seen with this shimmery quality that is hard to describe. While the front is more fitted with the belt the belt sits on your back on the inside hidden when looking at the back the back is very full and has a great swing to it.

The middle cape was made using a yarn my friend Sandy spins and #15's the dark square patches on the cape are shadows from the window. She takes the uncombed locks from her sheep and spins it to a wool core yarn. In this case they were the locks from her Cotswold sheep. The effect is like wearing a fur without any of the guilt associated with fur. I love the romance of this cape! Using short rows on the bottom I flared it out to have a train and added a hood as well. I made eyelets around the neck line to weave in the red silk ribbon that ties at the neck. I've thought about ripping this back to a knee length and cutting armholes to add sleeves so I could actually wear this but I want to get one really good photo of it before I do. So in the meantime it sits in a rubbermaid with the rest of them, which is wrong I know but what do you do with them all?!

And last but not least the one on the right. It's a cardigan my husband called "Sexy Claus". It's a cardigan made with Cascade's Pastaza another very nice red and trimmed in more of Sandy's curly yarn. It's a raglan top down with cables running the length of the raglan "seam" worked on #9's for the body & #15's for the trim. I used hook & eyes for the closures in front so it's a bit open you can see the gaps in the photo and made the collar a bit wider to show off the neck. I could be the hit at a Christmas dinner if I could ever remember to pull it out of those damn rubbermaids!

This is another piece I absolutely love and one that always got a reaction from people. Worked up one sleeve across and down the other it has kind of a Mad Max Tina Turner feel to it. The sleeves are made with Cascade's Eco Wool and #8's. The hairy section is made with more of Sandy's yarn this time the locks from a Karakul sheep. I didn't have much of the yarn with the blond strands so those are only on the shoulders and for the back I used a Karakul as well but with a thick/thin look to it. It's salt & pepper in coloring and was what Sandy used as the core for the yarn with the long strands. I think I knit the shoulders and back on #15's. You can just see where I started working the Karakul I worked eyelets around and made an i-cord to weave through. The i-cord is then joined and sewn together on the inside so it really doesn't serve any purpose. I've thought about reworking the sleeves and getting rid of the i-cord woven through since there's enough going on without it. But if you ever wanted to get someones attention this would be the piece to wear!

I think I should stop here, I'm ready to get back to work. Who knew I'd find inspiration stored in a rubbermaid!